A Himalayan Experience

Imagine the scenario. You are sitting in a valley, surrounded by snow-clad peaks, feet dipped in a stream as it tinkles along merrily, the icy cold water soothing the pain of a ten km walk, a hot cup of tea in your hands and listening to a mellifluous voice of a fellow trekker – “if there is heaven on earth, this is it, this is it”. Apologies to Kipling but he was not very far away when he composed the lines. Mountains by themselves are the most beautiful creations of nature and when it is the Himalayas, the beauty gets multiplied many folds. Trekking is the best way to explore a mountain and the treks organized by YHAI are wonderfully convenient. A comfortable tent ready to curl in to at the end of a long walk, blankets and most importantly food and perhaps also a cup of hot chocolate before tucking in- all real luxuries one can only dream of in the wilderness.

The Beas and Parbati valleys are trekkers’ paradise. The gradient of the walk is not very tough for both the young and the old. We had two women more than 50 years old and the baby of the group was barely 12. The two rivers, innumerable streams, pine forests, pretty flowers – all contribute liberally to the pristine beauty of the place.

Mati Kochar was one of the memorable places. A curving ridge near the camp has earned the sobriquet of ‘Spacewalk’ because the ridge affords an uninterrupted view of the Kulu valley and in the velvety dark night, the lights from the valley below and the twinkling stars above gives one a feeling that he is suspended in mid-air. Kasol and its hot water springs, is an example of Nature’s wonders. Parbati’s waters are so cold that the dipped feet freezes within seconds and yet within a meter away on the bank is a spring which spews out scalding water. One has to perform a dance to enjoy best of both the worlds, wait for a lapping wave to mix with the spring, dip your feet and quickly hop on to a stone to avoid getting scalded, as the wave recedes.

Manikaran too has hot water springs, much larger and even made into a pool in a very famous Gurudwara. In fact the kitchen of the Gurudwara which offers free food for everybody, uses the hot water to cook rice, potatoes etc. Kiksa Thatch was a nice place to camp for the night and made memorable for the sighting of the Himalayan Bear.

Rasol will be remembered for the Rhododendrons. The whole hill-side was covered with those lovely red flowers resembling a pom-pom amidst myriad shades of green. It was one of the prettiest sights on the trek. The “republic of Malana” is something seen to be believed. Its denizens claim to be descendants of Alexander and the tiny village calls itself an independent republic with its own laws and customs. It has a lower court, a High Court and the walls of these courts and the temple are taboo to outsiders. Even touching the walls would invite stiff fines! Marriage outside the village is not permitted. Very strange society indeed.

Nagruni was perhaps the best camp-site, absolutely picturesque with a view of the peaks’Ali Ratna ‘ and ‘Ali Ratni’. Next day was the climax of the trek as we crossed the Chanderkani pass, totally snow-bound and offering a fantastic view of the peaks around. Truly majestic and awesome, and certainly grand enough to raise every hair on its end. A thrilling slide down a steep wall of snow and a long walk through verdant meadows of Rumsu and we were back in Raison.

This post cannot be complete without a mention of ‘Bingo’, a very good looking mongrel, who adopted me. For most part of the trek he was by my side, walking when I walked, resting when I rested and eating whatever I offered. Quickly, he became the darling of the group and was fed generously by everybody, sometimes a whole packet of cream biscuits. But whatever be the lure, he will take it but faithfully come and flop himself next to me. It was very sad to leave him behind but then it was very sad too to leave Himalayas behind.